
Perhaps age brings wisdom? Or maybe just dumb luck?
Regardless, I believed I had solved my hub slipping issues that you may remember from such posts as this and this.
I believe several factors solved the problem, and you can see them after the jump...
I'd like to thank Jon, Tony and his friends, Eric, and Continuum Cycles.

1) In order to get the tensioners to "work" the axle needed to sit way farther up in the drop outs, as far forward as possible so that they weren't fully extended and my chain wasn't still slack.
2) To achieve #1, I needed to shorten my chain. I took a few links out and bought a half link. Actually, I bought a whole new chain, the excellent Izumi Model-V Super Toughness, since I figured that this "unbreakable" chain would be worth the investment since it's not only my driving element, but also my braking element. (Also, I believed that I ruined my white chain by soaking it, but that's another post for another time.)
3) I got some good track nuts. These nuts have a serrated washer-like component that tightens down and digs in as you secure the nut.
4) At the risk of exposing more metal, I lightly sanded down some of the shitty thick pain that was literally falling off the frame in chunks. I think I got a bit of a lemon on my paint job.
5) I tightened the fuck out of the nuts. Torquing them around 450-500 in-lbs.
6) After addressing the "creak" that developed (this will be addressed in another post) I discovered that Yojimbo's had installed a BB that was 118mm -- which, according to my mechanic is way too long for the application here and more suited for a Mountain Bike (thanks guys!). This meant that the spindles were longer, and the chainline was not as straight and tight as it should have been. This could have exgaggerated some of the torque and may have added to slippage.



Did he put the coater brake arm in the up position or did you?
Wow. Didn't notice that till now. He did.